Races

YQ: What’s Been Happening Overnight?

February 10, 2018 by

At this point in the race, pretty much what we know is what you know. We have no contact with the team and spend our time scrutinising the tracker and the analytics that come with it. Here’s what we have figured out…

Since we saw the team leave they climbed up over King Solomon’s Dome at a good speed, descended and camped at the Indian River at the base of the Dome for a couple of hours. I found a video from 2015 when Allen took a GoPro with him up the hill. They are travelling in the opposite direction in this video but it will give you an idea of the spectacular 360 degree views up there.

Allen took straw with him for the express purpose of camping there so the dogs will have enjoyed a warm nap after their hot meal. Allen said he didn’t expect he would even try to get his sleeping bag out, a two hour stop doesn’t really afford him much time to sleep but he would have rested a little, in-between tending to the dogs.  He took a couple of “real” seam-sealed meals with him to heat up in the dog-water. He took a chicken pesto for first camp and moose lasagna for second camp.

After their rest, they continued over the hills and pulled into Scroggie Creek Dog Drop between 11pm-12 midnight. Scroggie isn’t an official checkpoint so times in and out are not recorded so these are by our calculations looking at the tracker. To us, it looks like they stayed a good five hours there, which is great news. Allen was keen to keep the dogs rested and moving forward so this rest will have been amazing.

We have had official word that Allen left there with all 14 team mates, which is great news. Anyone he might have been worried about, even for anything minor, he wouldn’t have been keen to risk carrying them for 100 miles.

Allen’s going to be seeing a lot of interesting things along this trail. They are travelling near an active trapline and expect to see plenty of moose and wolves in the area. The trail breakers cautioned that along the Steward River trail is lots of willows and they are right at musher head height so to beware of being hit in the face along this area! There will be a lot of bobbing and weaving going on so we anticipate him having no trouble staying awake on this section. Another hazard along the Yukon Quest Trail!

Right now they are climbing the “endless” Black Hills so we will expect to see their speed varying. We are envisaging Chena, Champ and Nomex screaming in delight going up the hills which amps the rest of the team up to continue pushing.

Next stop for the team is likely to be Stepping Stone Hospitality Stop. Next stop for us is Pelly Crossing Checkpoint to continue watching the tracker. Once we leave Dawson we will have radio silence for a while so for that period you will know more than we do!

Thanks Dawson, it’s been amazing! Thank you to the team at the Downtown Hotel for taking good care of us and making us food at all hours of the day!

Uncategorized

The Cremation of Sam McGee – Robert W Service

February 9, 2018 by

Here’s something a little different. In 1906 Robert W Service wrote about another time it was this cold in the Yukon…

The Cremation of Sam McGee

There are strange things done in the midnight sun
By the men who moil for gold;
The Arctic trails have their secret tales
That would make your blood run cold;
The Northern Lights have seen queer sights,
But the queerest they ever did see
Was that night on the marge of Lake Lebarge
I cremated Sam McGee.

Now Sam McGee was from Tennessee, where the cotton blooms and blows.
Why he left his home in the South to roam ’round the Pole, God only knows.
He was always cold, but the land of gold seemed to hold him like a spell;
Though he’d often say in his homely way that “he’d sooner live in hell.”

On a Christmas Day we were mushing our way over the Dawson trail.
Talk of your cold! through the parka’s fold it stabbed like a driven nail.
If our eyes we’d close, then the lashes froze till sometimes we couldn’t see;
It wasn’t much fun, but the only one to whimper was Sam McGee.

And that very night, as we lay packed tight in our robes beneath the snow,
And the dogs were fed, and the stars o’erhead were dancing heel and toe,
He turned to me, and “Cap,” says he, “I’ll cash in this trip, I guess;
And if I do, I’m asking that you won’t refuse my last request.”

Well, he seemed so low that I couldn’t say no; then he says with a sort of moan:
“It’s the cursèd cold, and it’s got right hold till I’m chilled clean through to the bone.
Yet ’tain’t being dead—it’s my awful dread of the icy grave that pains;
So I want you to swear that, foul or fair, you’ll cremate my last remains.”

A pal’s last need is a thing to heed, so I swore I would not fail;
And we started on at the streak of dawn; but God! he looked ghastly pale.
He crouched on the sleigh, and he raved all day of his home in Tennessee;
And before nightfall a corpse was all that was left of Sam McGee.

There wasn’t a breath in that land of death, and I hurried, horror-driven,
With a corpse half hid that I couldn’t get rid, because of a promise given;
It was lashed to the sleigh, and it seemed to say: “You may tax your brawn and brains,
But you promised true, and it’s up to you to cremate those last remains.”

Now a promise made is a debt unpaid, and the trail has its own stern code.
In the days to come, though my lips were dumb, in my heart how I cursed that load.
In the long, long night, by the lone firelight, while the huskies, round in a ring,
Howled out their woes to the homeless snows— O God! how I loathed the thing.

And every day that quiet clay seemed to heavy and heavier grow;
And on I went, though the dogs were spent and the grub was getting low;
The trail was bad, and I felt half mad, but I swore I would not give in;
And I’d often sing to the hateful thing, and it hearkened with a grin.

Till I came to the marge of Lake Lebarge, and a derelict there lay;
It was jammed in the ice, but I saw in a trice it was called the “Alice May.”
And I looked at it, and I thought a bit, and I looked at my frozen chum;
Then “Here,” said I, with a sudden cry, “is my cre-ma-tor-eum.”

Some planks I tore from the cabin floor, and I lit the boiler fire;
Some coal I found that was lying around, and I heaped the fuel higher;
The flames just soared, and the furnace roared—such a blaze you seldom see;
And I burrowed a hole in the glowing coal, and I stuffed in Sam McGee.

Then I made a hike, for I didn’t like to hear him sizzle so;
And the heavens scowled, and the huskies howled, and the wind began to blow.
It was icy cold, but the hot sweat rolled down my cheeks, and I don’t know why;
And the greasy smoke in an inky cloak went streaking down the sky.

I do not know how long in the snow I wrestled with grisly fear;
But the stars came out and they danced about ere again I ventured near;
I was sick with dread, but I bravely said: “I’ll just take a peep inside.
I guess he’s cooked, and it’s time I looked”; … then the door I opened wide.

And there sat Sam, looking cool and calm, in the heart of the furnace roar;
And he wore a smile you could see a mile, and he said: “Please close that door.
It’s fine in here, but I greatly fear you’ll let in the cold and storm—
Since I left Plumtree, down in Tennessee, it’s the first time I’ve been warm.”

There are strange things done in the midnight sun
By the men who moil for gold;
The Arctic trails have their secret tales
That would make your blood run cold;
The Northern Lights have seen queer sights,
But the queerest they ever did see
Was that night on the marge of Lake Lebarge
I cremated Sam McGee.

Races

YQ: It’s A Long Road To Pelly Crossing, It’s A Long Way To Go

February 9, 2018 by

This morning at 8.30am we said farewell to Allen and his 14-strong team as they headed out of Dawson towards Pelly Crossing, 210 miles away.

The morning started with an early wake-up call. Jeff, who was stationed at camp overnight, Aliy and Bridgett started preparing the team. They ate voraciously and were frisky and playing with each other (the dogs, I mean). Each dog was taken for a warm up jog to get muscles working and to get the blood pumping, received by a liniment rub and ointment on their feet. Over the next couple of hours the crew took care and attention to dress each dog appropriately in T-shirts, harnesses, insulated jackets, wind coats, foxtails, leggings and, finally, booties.

Back at the hotel Allen gathered his personal gear. He had to ensure he had everything he needs for the trek ahead. He checked and double checked he had all his layers, gloves, mitts, hats, neck gators, boots and spares of everything in case of overflow. Getting wet at these temperatures is extremely dangerous so a change of clothes is a must, even thought the trail report said there were no wet spots currently.

While he was getting ready Bridgett asked Allen what he is expecting for the next leg:

Allen then got over to camp where he spent a couple of hours meticulously packing his sled. With 210 miles ahead of them and no resupply points along the way he had to ensure he had enough kibble, snacks, booties, dog gear and personal food to get him and the team there safely, with some contingency for changes of plan.

Nomex, Chena and Junior wait
Allen packs his sled with supplies

Finally it all came together and they were ready to go. They were absolutely ready to be back on the trail and howled their delight.

He left with Commando and Dutch in lead, Kodiak and Spark in swing, Champ and Clyde, Rodney and Five, Nomex and Driver, Junior and Chena then Felix and Violet in wheel.

We’ve loved having our hands on them for 36 hours but they were more than ready to be gone so we bade them a loving farewell and watched them mush off down the trail. After a social 36 hours Allen is back to being out in the wilderness with his 14 best mates and you can be sure he is loving it! Well, except the cold.

You can see on the map below, the campsite on the intersection of the highway and Bonanza Road. Shout out to the Bonanza Gold Motel and RV Park for hosting us this year! The trail continues down that road for a time. It is gravelled in the summer and in winter is ploughed for the first 11 miles. It won’t be long before they start climbing King Solomon’s Dome to an elevation of 4,002 feet and rise above the tree line.

Our next task is to dismantle camp which we will do after breakfast. Aliy then flies home to complete and submit Iditarod Drop Bags while Bridgett, Jeff and Moira go down the road to Pelly Crossing to await the team there. It’s a long trail to Pelly by dogsled but only about four hours by road, so we will stick round Dawson for a while and enjoy this fun town, inbetween checking the tracker.

Dogs

YQ: Athletes’ Faces

February 8, 2018 by

During my visit to the dog camp today I tried to get pictures of everyone but some were already settling in for a nap. Apologies to Junior, she was already asleep under her blanket when I tried to take her picture – I didn’t want to disturb her so I shall endeavour to get a picture of her the next time I see her in daylight.

Champ settling in
Sleepy Chena
Clyde contemplates who IS the good boy?
Commando and Bridgett enjoy some sunshine
Driver snacking in bed
Dutch enjoys his chicken snack
Felix is handsome
Five being coy
Kodiak eats another meaty meal
Nomex is ready for another nap
Oh Rodney!
Beautiful Violet
Sparkie-doo-dah

 

Dogs | Races

YQ: What Happens in Dawson, Stays in Dawson

February 8, 2018 by

So what do we do during the 36 hour layover for our team?

After their arrival, meal and massage we let the the dogs sleep. It’s still really cold in Dawson so they hunkered down under their blankets and slept soundly. Around hour eight we woke them for another warm and hydrating meal and got them up to pee and stretch. They were happy to get tucked back into their blankets, some even sharing blankets as they curled up together. Except Driver – that silly boy doesn’t like blankets so we have to sneak in after he’s asleep and put one over him.

Around noon we took each one for a walk around the camp ground to loosen up muscles then reapplied ointments and liniments. Our timing was perfect as the sun had raised up over the hills for a brief time and we got all the dogs out while it was shining.

This was also when the vet team took urine samples from the dogs to ensure no banned performance enhancing or pain killing substances are in their systems. They also got another big meal – number three so far.

Bridgett massages Felix’ wrists

The dogs are currently having another nap then we’ll offer another meal – number four – later this evening. The name of the game is get as much rest and as many fat and protein calories as we can into them so they are offered as much as they will eat of whatever they choose: three kinds of kibble, fat, meat or any combination of the above.

Settling in for another nap

As for Allen, he inadvertantly landed on a perfect human schedule. He will sleep two full nights in a bed and can eat at fairly “regular” hours. His routine is pretty similar to the dogs: eat, sleep and repeat.

Many thanks to the RCMP who have opened their workshop for the mushers to use while in Dawson!

We’ve been able to take Allen’s sled inside, thaw it out and check zippers, lines and sled runners. We have also hung up all the dog jackets, harnesses, leggings and T-shirts to ensure they are completely dry before putting them back on for departure.

It makes a huge difference to be able to get that gear inside especially if any repairs are needed. Fortunately the flux capacitor is in perfect working order so no need to visit the hardware store for anything.

The team leaves Dawson at 8:30am Friday, local time (there is a one hour time difference here than AK) so it means an early start for us as we head over to camp three hours prior. We’ll feed one more time, this time a watery meaty meal to get them super hydrated.

Dressing the dogs properly will be important because as soon as they leave Dawson they climb King Solomon’s Dome, the highest climb of the race. The trail is above the tree line for some time.

Unfortunately the forecast calls for this cold to continue with the added bonus of wind so we will put the dogs in their insulated jackets covered by wind breaker jackets, foxtails and leggings for those that need them.

The next checkpoint is 210 miles away in Pelly Crossing but there are two hospitality/dog drops along the way: Scroggie Creek and Stepping Stone. Allen will repack his sled with the straw and supplies he needs to camp along the way.

The trail breakers will leave two hours ahead of the team and they report that the trail is excellent. There is no drifting because there is not a lot of snow. There is a new wide cut-off trail that cuts off a big 180 degree turn at the top of the Dome and they report no water/glaciation on the trail.

After King Solomon’s Dome is the Black Hills and there is low snow conditions up there also. The trail crew reported lots of moose and wolves in the area.

Once they leave we will break down camp and pack it all back up into Hollywood, leaving the campsite back as it was.

When I say “What happens in Dawson, stays in Dawson” it is not just a saying. What I mean by that is the things we can do with the team – feeding, massage, dressing – we can’t do for the rest of the race, until they cross the finish line. 

Races

YQ: Dawson Arrival Video

February 8, 2018 by

Here’s some video from the Dawson chute last night.

Commando and Dutch, Spark and Kodiak, Clyde and Champ, Rodney and Five, Nomex and Driver, Junior and Chena with Violet and Felix in wheel.

Races

YQ: “We Endured”

February 7, 2018 by

We are so happy and relieved to see all those beautiful faces looking so happy, trotting down the chute to meet us. They all looked fantastic and Allen was even coherent which, after just 3.5 hours sleep since Saturday, was amazing!

Commando and Dutch led the team into the chute and Sparkie and Kodiak – who are enjoying a real bromance at the moment – were in swing followed by Clyde and Champ, Rodney and Five, Nomex and Driver, Junior and Chena with Violet and Felix still in wheel.

Check this out… after 500 miles and they look like this? You can’t ask for anything more.

After completing immigration formalities and formally checking into the checkpoint Allen spoke with the gathered media. He told them the hardest part of the race so far is the cold. While Allen was busy we greeted the frosted faces of 14 of our best friends. They enjoyed their beef and salmon and were in full song when Allen was ready to take them down the trail to camp.

“Holy c**p they look good” – those of you watching the Quest live feed may have heard Aliy exclaim that as they left the chute on Front Street in Dawson to run the next two miles to camp.

Once there the vet team was immediately on hand to give the dogs a thorough looking over. They are in great shape. We then fed them a huge, hot meal, dressed them, and every dog got a foot and body massage. We then tucked them into their straw beds and covered them in blankets. It’s a cold night here in Dawson and they have worked hard to get here. They will certainly enjoy their rest. Jeff is there with them tonight and he will enjoy the peace of the dog camp.

In the truck on the way back to town Allen was telling us about what happened since we saw them in Circle.

Coming in to Eagle was lots of glare ice – listen to the great story behind the picture we posted by Whitney McLaren.

American Summit was WARM! Crazy! He decided that every caribou in Alaska must have been at the top of American Summit enjoying the elevated temperatures up there. He said it was difficult to find the trail, not because it was windblown or had fresh snow but because of the caribou tracks everywhere!

He also described the bone chilling temperatures on Forty Mile River. After enjoying the amazing hospitality of Sandy and Earl at Clinton Creek where he got 1.5 hours of the best sleep, he knew it was going to be cold for the next eight hours. He said that his mindset when he left there was “We will endure”.

It is very easy to frost nip everything at such extreme temperatures, coupled with the wind that came up. Dogs, especially the boys, are prone but Allen was able to keep them from suffering that by ensuring the boys were wearing what we, rather indelicately, call “dick ticklers” – fox tails – in the vulnerable region. This is like a fur ruff on a parka only a little lower down. His preventive measures worked and all the boys’ parts are in full working order.

It’s hard for mushers to be comfortable in these conditions. One reporter asked Allen in Dawson “how do you stay warm out there?” – Allen answered “I don’t think I did”. A good clothing system is essential and Allen still works to perfect it even after so many years. This year he purchased new beaver mitts which he was pretty happy about on Forty Mile. He is not shy about wearing multiple chemical hand and foot warmers. During his brief camp in the hills between Eagle and Clinton Creek he had intended to take one hour to get a warm meal into the dogs. He decided to change his socks and put new foot warmers in and he said it took him about half hour to do something that usually takes just a few minutes as everything takes a little longer in the cold.

Allen is really happy with the dogs and happy to be in Dawson. All 15 will enjoy the next 36 hours.

Right now everyone but me is asleep so I will go ahead and do the same. I have a little bit of video to edit and share with you tomorrow, as well as a dog update and more fun stuff.

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